A Month in the Heart of Moorish Spain

Andalucía

Andalucia was controlled by the Moors until 1492, when they finally ceded control to the Spanish monarch. Nearly 600 years later the Moorish influence is still pervasive. We spent a month exploring this fascinating mix of Moorish and European.

Sevilla

Sevilla was our base. The city has over 115 Catholic churches. We saw them all. Okay, not quite, but we saw a lot. From the monumental Cathedral (complete with Christopher Columbus’s tomb) to obscure neighbourhood churches. Most fun were the convents of cloistered nuns who sold fresh baking through revolving doors in the walls of the convents. We got caught up in crushing religious processions. Elaborately adorned, life-size replicas of the Virgin or locally-revered Saints being paraded through the streets, complete with marching bands, solemn looking candle-bearers and clouds of incense.

Sevilla is known for its spectacular Moorish-era buildings, notably the Royal Alcazar, a royal residence repurposed from a colossal mosque. We made the obligatory visits to these “must-see” attractions, but preferred just soaking up the atmosphere in the streets. Much of the city centre is pedestrian only. A maze of twisting alleys and elegant streets lined with tapas restaurants and shops. Wandering aimlessly was the best way to explore.

Sevillanos lead a “refined” life. People dress up to go out, even just for shopping. Friends and family congregate together in sidewalk cafes, bars and restaurants. Sunday afternoons especially, restaurants are packed with multiple generations of families sharing a leisurely weekly meal. We happily joined the tradition by making a standing Sunday afternoon reservation at a neighbourhood restaurant.

Sevilla is definitely one of our new favourite world cities.

Other Gems of Andalucía

Andalucia is an enormous region, too big and diverse to absorb in one month. We were however able to make a few short side-trips from Sevilla to explore some of the other famous sights.

Córdoba’s crown jewel is La Mezquita, an 8th century mosque later converted to a Catholic church. The mosque’s prayer hall with its forest of columns topped by colourful, sweeping arches has become the iconic symbol of Cordoba. The Catholic church plunked in the middle would be large by other measure, but is dwarfed by the mosque. However, La Mezquita is only one of four UNESCO World Heritage sites in the city. Each one alone would warrant a visit. Cordoba’s role as centre of the Moorish Caliphate has left a staggering legacy.

Granada was another of the great Moorish cities. The Alhambra, one of the most famous and dazzling structures in Islamic architecture, looms over the city from a plateau high above. Visitors line up before the gates open (yes, we were there too) to rush to get the perfect Instagram shots before the crowds arrive. The Sacromonte district on the hillside across the river from the Alhambra is the polar opposite. It was settled by a group of Roma who dug cave homes into the hillside. The cave homes are still occupied. The neighbourhood retains its colourful character, with boisterous flamenco bars and winding streets so narrow that drivers have to fold in their mirrors to squeeze through.

Jerez has everything that other Andalucian cities have. That wasn’t why we went though. Jerez is the home of sherry. We were there to visit a sherry bodega. To see where and how the wine is made. Our tour of Bodega Tio Pepe, one of the best known sherry brands, was a great way to learn more about a wine we love.

Cádiz, an ancient port city, is a short train ride away. The old city is built on a spit of land. It was a heavily fortified naval bastion that still retains many of the old walls and towers. We walked the waterfront, climbed the cathedral tower and toured the Roman amphitheatre (they’re everywhere). However, we spent a lot of our time enjoying fresh fish and wine and soaking up the atmosphere in restaurants adjoining the municipal market.

Malaga is at the centre of Spain’s Costa del Sol, with its reputation for sun worshippers, drunken revelry and crowds of ex-pats. We were pleasantly surprised. Bustling shopping streets, its historic fortress, the Picasso museum, the tree-lined portside boardwalk and a great selection of restaurants made for a terrific few days.

The people of the mountainous south of Andalucia were caught on the frontlines between Moorish and Christian forces for centuries. Constant conflict swirling around them drove them into hilltop perches. Their homes were predominantly whitewashed, hence the name “white villages”. Many inhabitants have left, but the villages remain like wedding cakes scattered in the mountains. We rented a car for a hair-raising drive up, down and around the mountains to visit as many as we could.

A slideshow of some highlights of Andalucia

Home of Tapas and Iberico Ham

We ate well in Andalucia. Too well. Tapas restaurants with endless varieties of small bites seem to be on every corner. Even the tiniest cafes had shanks of salty, fat-streaked ham waiting to be carved. On top of that, the Mediterranean on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other meant fresh fish everywhere we turned.

To view more photos click here to go to the Andalucia Photo Album.