Camino de Santiago Week 1

St. Jean to Los Arcos, Spain

Our retirement adventure started with a big, wet bang. Weather in the Pyrenees took a dramatic turn for the worse on the day we started the Camino de Santiago. Our first day to Roncesvalles, over the summit of the Pyrenees, was through driving rain, fog and cold.

After a treacherous descent into Roncesvalles (due to poor route choices) we spent the evening in a converted monastery that accommodated 200 peregrinos (Spanish for pilgrims).

Day 2 wasn’t much better. After a brief respite from the rain, the wet and cold returned. A 5-hour hike brought us cold and wet to the sleepy village of Zubiri.

Most peregrinos walk the Camino. Many cycle it. A few still rely on donkeys.

We didn’t think it possible but day 3 was more challenging. It began with torrential rain. Many parts of the path had turned into streams from the waters coming off the mountains. The Arga River was flooding portions of the trail. We stupidly traversed a portion that had been washed out by the rushing river. Authorities closed the Camino for safety reasons just after we passed through. The photos below are the tame spots. When it got really hairy we were too busy to take pictures. We were very happy to arrive safely in Pamplona, Spain.

Day 4 was a rest day in Pamplona, famous for the running of the bulls. The sun began to shine. The old fortified city is a charming town full of cafes and bars.

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Our Camino resumed with only a couple of hours of sleep. Pamplona FC won a big victory so revelers were in the streets singing, banging drums and setting off fireworks until 4:30 am. We rose early and turned west. The weather turned sunny.

From Pamplona to Los Arcos – 3 days trekking – we settled into what will likely become our rhythm for the rest of the Camino. Out of bed early, a quick coffee and toast then hiking for anywhere from 5 to 8 hours. We make regular stops at the picturesque, but practically deserted, villages for coffee and to rest our feet. Once we arrive at our albergue it’s showers, laundry (usually by hand but machine if we’re lucky) followed by a bit of relaxation, dinner then bed. Repeat tomorrow.

Dinners are generally communal pilgrims’ meals. The dinners are basic but include three courses and wine for around 10 to 15 euros. Below is a typical 3 course meal – tomato pasta and bean soup as starters, grilled chicken and chips and grilled beef and chips for entrees and rice pudding for dessert.

138 kms behind us, 647 to go. For more photos of the last week check out our photo gallery.

The dream continues!