Camino de Santiago – Week 3
Burgos to León
Most of the week has been spent traversing la Meseta – a massive, arid plain stretching for hundreds of kilometres. (For Canadians, imagine walking across southern Saskatchewan.) We have walked a little less than 200 kilometres this week, and have still not finished crossing the Meseta. We have spent long days marching along country roads surrounded by flat grain fields as far as the eye can see. Early in the week temperatures reached into the 30s. The last two days have been frigid, around 3 degrees each morning.
León
The week ended in León. León is a sprawling industrial city but the old city in the centre is lovely. The area within the ancient walls remains largely intact. There are winding, narrow streets lined with homes and businesses built centuries ago. Most tourists stick to the main streets close to the cathedral. The real gems however are the streets and squares a block or two off the main routes. They retain the local flavour and are lined with cafes and wine bars to relax and watch the action.
Spain’s former wealth, and that of the Roman Catholic Church, is again illustrated by León Cathedral. The structure itself is impressive. However, seeing the stained glass as you enter the main doors is awe-inspiring.
Like last week, Sunday evening provided a highlight. Our albergue was in a convent belonging to the Augustinian Order of nuns. They attend vespers every evening in the adjoining cathedral, singing all the prayers. Following vespers they sing folk songs in the common area of the albergue. They have amazing voices. Though not as spontaneous as Father Jorges’ mass last week, it was equally touching.
Typical Budget
Below is an itemized list of one day’s expenses. It is pretty typical of what we spend each day. Costs vary mainly based on the quality of our accommodation. Otherwise not much changes each day. Our budget is more generous than most pilgrims. We’re able to afford better places to stay and can spoil ourselves with treats along the way that many pilgrims cannot afford.
471 kms down, 313 to go.
The Dream Continues!
For more photos of the last week check out our photo gallery:
Our vicarious pleasure continues along with your “dream”!
Anne and I were wondering why the long days. I now understand. A break in the morning, Lunch and a break in the afternoon. You two sound like Union workers. When do you really work walking?
Our distances are pretty typical. Many people go further each day. Maria’s one of the faster walkers so we tend to reach our destinations early in the day!
It is really enjoyable reading your blog George. You may have to up your game to keep pace with Maria :-). You have clearly had a mix of experiences blended with touching moments already. Best wishes to you both
Our intrepid travellers! Looks like an amazing experience. Lots of beauty in
the photos …..even the sites look great! We are pleased to get your updates.
Thinking of you
Thanks! Come join us along the way somewhere.