Chauffered Across Jordan

Continuing the theme of ancient civilizations, we spent 11 days in Jordan. Because of our lack of advance planning, we again arranged a tour with a driver/guide. Our driver Yousef was a terrific host and ambassador for his country. He’s also a great barista. Over our 1,000+ kilometres of driving he regularly found scenic spots to stop and make us sage or cardamom infused tea, or syrupy Jordanian coffee.

Amman

Our tour started in the capital Amman, a complete contrast to Cairo where we had just flown from. Amman has a long history but is now a bustling, modern metropolis. Mixed with the modern are the ancient sites of the Citadel, with panoramic views over the city, and the Roman Theatre. A wander along the shopping streets in the old town is a visit to another era. Tiny stores jam-packed with inventory bursting onto the sidewalks sell everything imaginable, including a street of shops selling nothing but guns. The smells of spices, flowers, incense, cigarettes and exhaust fumes from the gridlocked traffic all add to the ambience.

The King’s Highway

From Amman we drove the ancient King’s Highway as far south as the Wadi Rum desert near Saudi Arabia, then back north to the Dead Sea. It was a lot of driving but a great way to see the country. The highway runs through the middle of Jordan. It was the original trade route for luxury goods between Arabia and Syria. The highway connects the historical towns and cities that built up around imposing castles that protected the route from invaders.

Today it is busy with tourists visiting Mount Nebo, Moses’ final resting place, or enjoying the majestic landscapes of the Wadi al-mujib (called Jordan’s Grand Canyon). Regular working towns straddle the highway. Travelling the King’s Highway gave us chance to glimpse locals going about their daily lives.

Jerash

Just over 50 km outside Amman is the ancient city of Jerash, also referred to as the Pompeii of the East. It is one of the best-preserved Greco-Roman sites outside Italy. Jerash grew to prominence under Alexander the Great and later flourished under the Romans. Starting in the third century, earthquakes and invaders decimated the city. It was abandoned and lost until the 19th century. The structures that have been best preserved were buried under centuries of sand and dirt, unearthed by archaeologists only in the past hundred years. It was fascinating to see water supply, sewage system, manholes and shopping arcades, all using technology we still rely on today.

Petra

Petra, the sprawling 4th century capital city of the Nabatean Kingdom, is Jordan’s number one tourist attraction. Our first introduction was the evening candlelight walk into the most recognizable landmark, the Treasury.  The stars sparkling in the clear night sky and the moon reflecting off the surrounding mountains were more dazzling than the monuments. The next day we walked the length of the site on the main track, then back along a steep mountain trail to the High Place of Sacrifice. Luckily it was not too hot or crowded since we walked 13 tough kilometres. Cold beer is not easy to find in Jordan but we persevered to make sure to re-hydrate!

Day two we hiked into the Monastery from Little Petra at the opposite end.  We were the only ones on the trail except for some dogs and a herder with his goats clamouring up vertical sandstone rockfaces in search of meager bits of plants. It was Zen-like to be out in the fresh morning air with the songbirds. It was as if we had the Monastery to ourselves. We relaxed with freshly squeezed orange juice, basking in the sunshine with just six other tourists, three donkeys and a hungry dog. Within 30 minutes more and more exhausted tourists started to arrive from the main trail. We trekked out down the main trail over very steep, uneven steps, competing with hordes of visitors hiking up and mules and donkeys carrying hot, exhausted tourists. We were so glad we had opted to hike in from Little Petra rather than hiking the busy main trail in and out.

Wadi Rum

The vast dessert valley of Wadi Rum with dramatic rock formations of sandstone and granite and hot desert air was a perfect place to relax and enjoy nature. The desert is speckled with camps for overnight camping. We stayed the night at Palmera Camp. It was more glamping. Our tent had a double bed, a/c, shower and a picture window. The camp had a swimming pool, espresso bar and a first-rate chef. William, Kate and Family (shameless name dropping!) stayed there when they recently visited Jordan. The silence of the dessert was deafening, broken only by the distant hum of occasional planes passing overhead. Even the camels were relaxed and quiet.

Dana Biosphere Reserve

The Dana Biosphere reserve is part of the Great Rift Valley. The giant columns of craggy limestone, granite and sandstone with green oases scattered throughout offer a beautiful escape to enjoy nature. There are no marked trails, just many interlocking goat trails.

Our guide Ahmed happened to be celebrating his 70^th birthday. Before learning English and becoming a guide, he was a shepherd for 40 years. He spent the summer months tending his family’s flock in the Dana valley. Despite having no schooling, he had encyclopedic knowledge of the flora and fauna, geology and history. Mid-hike we stopped to light a fire with deadwood gathered nearby. Ahmed boiled us herbal tea made from different plants he collected along the way and regaled us with stories of his life. He even showed us the cave where he and his flock sheltered at night for months at a time when he was a boy.

The Dead Sea

From Dana it is a short drive to the Dead Sea. The drive from the mountaintop to below sea level is steep, twisting and dramatic. Approaching the Dead Sea the salt stains on the shoreline reveal the receding lines of the waters due to irrigation upstream in feeder rivers. The legendary Jordan River is now just a stream at points. An initiative to build a pipeline from the Red Sea to replenish the Dead Sea is mired in politics.

We may have been lucky to visit before the Dead Sea disappears completely. Regardless of your political or religious beliefs, standing beside the Dead Sea is awe-inspiring. Plus being smeared with oozing black mud from the shoreline then floating effortlessly in the saline waters is very therapeutic. (Don’t look for pictures of our svelte, mud-caked figures in the slideshow. Some things are best kept private.)

Next Cyprus. Our Final Stop of This Trip.