High on Lake Titicaca

After Machu Picchu we were looking forward to Lake Titicaca. Lake Titicaca is the largest lake in South America and, at 3,800m, reputedly the highest navigable lake in the world. It straddles the border of Peru and Bolivia, so was our gateway to Bolivia.

PeruRail Titicaca Train

For our journey to Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca we opted for a 10-hour train ride on the PeruRail Titicaca Line. The ride is described as the most beautiful train ride in South America. It lived up to its billing.

We assumed it would just be a normal train. PeruRail operates another luxury train, the Belmond Express, well out of our price range. We arrived early to the station and were directed to the VIP waiting lounge, with plush chairs and coffee in china cups. We whispered to each other we should grab a coffee and get out before we were exposed as imposters.

Turns out we were in the right place. The Titicaca train is also luxurious, just not as luxurious as the Belmond. The coaches had rich wood paneling, polished brass fixtures, comfortable chairs, linen tablecloths and fine china. When we wanted to stretch there was an open air observation car. We were entertained with live music, a fashion show and a demonstration on how to make Pisco Sours. There was one brief stop at the summit where local women had their wares for sale. Ten hours passed quickly. It was a relaxing way to enjoy the beautiful countryside and observe the day-to-day lives of the locals.

Islands of Lake Titicaca

Puno is an edgy town on the shores of Lake Titicaca on the Peruvian side. It is not a town where you would wander off the beaten track after dark. Puno was our base to visit the nearby Peruvian islands on Lake Titicaca.

Our first stop was Uros, a collection of about 70 floating islands. The islands are made of interwoven layers of reeds needing constant maintenance. Historically they were to protect the Uros people from attack, first from the Incas then the Spanish. A small population of people still live on the islands, but the islands are now mainly a tourist draw.

Amantani Homestay

Our main destination was the island of Amantani. We spent a night in the home of a local family. Life on the island continues as it did 100 years ago. There are no streets, no motorized vehicles, no TV’s and no WiFi. The islanders meet once a week for their elected leaders to verbally update them on the news. All the little gardens are tilled by the men. Plows are pulled, not by oxen, but by two strong men. Only women are allowed to sow the seeds for the crops. There is no machinery except for a shovel and hoe. Everything is organic.

Since there are few animals except chickens on the island, meat is only eaten on special occasions. The diet is mainly quinoa, rice, potatoes, eggs and vegetables. In the evening we climbed to the highest point on the island for a beautiful sunset over Lake Titicaca before returning to burrow under four layers of heavy wool blankets for a good night’s sleep.

Our final day was spent hiking on Isla de Taquile. Though only a few kilometres from Amantani and Uros islands, the Taquile culture is entirely different. Men and women can quickly be identified as single or married by their attire. Potential mates are chosen based on their knitting and embroidery skills. Until a man can prove his prowess at knitting he will not find a partner.

Copacabana, Bolivia

We took the bus from Puno to Copacabana, a small, dusty town just over the Peru/Bolivia border. We found ourselves surrounded by gap-year students and recent university graduates. They were backpacking South America to treat themselves before returning to the real world of work and school. We were the only passengers over 30 years old. There were very few middle-aged tourists. This area of Bolivia is off the beaten track, and a bit too rustic for most.

Copacabana has transformed from an out-of-the way fishing village to a holiday destination. It has a small beach that attracts Bolivian tourists since the country is landlocked. However, the town now caters mainly to backpackers who use it as a base for trips to Isla del Sol. It has one paved street and a nice bay from which all boat trips are launched. The touristic part of town is filled with cheap hostels and inexpensive restaurants and bars. A few blocks off the beach, the locals went about life, shopping in open-air markets and eating at street stalls. A much more pleasant vibe.

Hiking Isla del Sol

Isla del Sol is one of the most sacred islands in South America. It is the birthplace of the Sun and the Inca bloodline. There are no paved roads or motorized vehicles. A few donkeys were the only animals we saw. For about $10 CDN roundtrip we set off with a group of friendly twenty-somethings on a little boat from Copacabana to the island. We disembarked at the sleepy village of Challapampa at the northern end of the island. We hiked 13km on an old Inca path with some steep climbs and great views. At over 4,000 metres our lungs were working hard on the climbs. The going was slow. We got to see old Inca ruins and native women selling their wares in small huts on the side of the trail. We bought overpriced stuff we don’t need just to support them.

The trail ends at the village of Yumani at the southern end of the island. Many backpackers overnight in Yumani. Facilities are mainly hostels and a few small restaurants. Hostels are student-budget friendly. The real price of the stay is the climb up over 500 Inca steps from the harbour to the town. You climb over 200 meters in less than 1 km. Luckily we hiked down instead of up. We felt bad for those we passed that were climbing up with their large backpacks in the hot sun. We felt less bad for the three middle-aged men who turned over their bags to a Bolivian man and woman to carry up the hill for them.

Next Up: Dodging protests in Bolivia.