Ireland

As many of you know, Maria is originally from Ireland. We spent two weeks here after the Camino de Santiago, mainly visiting family. We also made time to meet up with old friends and do some sightseeing (and sample a pint or two of the local brew).

Those of you from vast countries like Australia or Canada may look at a map of Ireland and think “Ah sure, we could drive around the whole country in a couple of days”. Don’t be fooled by its size. There is a lot to see and do, and getting around is slow-going. We saw only a fraction of the country on this visit.

Dublin

Dublin is the start and end point of most visits to Ireland. There is so much history, culture and entertainment in Dublin you could easily spend a week or more in the city without venturing further afield.

Maria grew up in and around Dublin and we have returned several times over the years so our sightseeing was limited. We enjoyed a sunny afternoon strolling the Temple Bar entertainment area checking out the traditional music in some of the pubs. That is a must see and do when in Dublin. We also strolled the busy Grafton Street pedestrian mall and nearby St. Stephen’s Green park. Our short visit cannot do Dublin justice. There is so much to see and do.

Much of our time was spent catching up with old friends. We met up with some of Maria’s friends from school and college, some of whom she’s known since grade school. We enjoyed a nice dinner catching up with one of George’s grad school classmates whom we hadn’t seen since 1995. With a bit of research we also found the home where George’s paternal grandfather was born in 1892.

If you’re in Dublin, a side trip to the seaside village of Malahide is highly recommended. Malahide is easily accessible from Dublin via commuter train. It is a beautiful village with a nice beach, a perennial winner of Ireland’s “Tidy Town” competition. The highlight is Malahide Castle, a historic estate home surrounded by tranquil gardens (including a nice shop and restaurant by Avoca). If commuter trains aren’t your thing, Hop-On/Hop-Off buses tours from Dublin follow the coastline, with stops at the equally appealing towns of Howth and Portmarmock.

Tralee, County Kerry

Tralee is perhaps best known to foreigners from of the “Rose of Tralee” competition. It is at the base of the Dingle Peninsula, a popular tourist destination. Everyone should make time to stop in Tralee. The town centre has been transformed into an inviting and historic pedestrian mall. The surrounding countryside along the Bay of Tralee is gorgeous. It is part of the Wild Atlantic Way walking trail.

County Cork

Our visit to County Cork started with Skibbereen, a bustling town in the west of Cork. Though close to the coast, Skibbereen is set in green, rolling farmland. George’s paternal grandmother grew up in the parish of Lissanoohig, just outside Skibbereen. We stayed in a B&B about a kilometre from George’s great-grandparents’ house. The house, probably built in the 1850s, is still standing. Our host was kind enough to drive us around the parish and give us some history of the estate houses.

Our next stop was Kinsale, a popular tourist destination on the south coast. With its narrow streets and traditionally painted buildings it has become a major tourist destination. It was a bit overrun with tourist buses. Kinsale is particularly known for its food scene. Unfortunately we were there for lunch. Most of the good restaurants only open for dinner. If you go, try to be there in the evening to take advantage of the dining scene.

Our final stop in County Cork was Cork City. The primary purpose of the stop was to get together with a friend we met on the Camino. (A great reunion!). When we got to Cork we regretted we could not have spent more time.

Many of the streets in the city centre have been transformed into pedestrian-only zones. The streets are lined with restaurants and pubs. There is a busy live theatre and entertainment scene, including plenty of traditional music. Local musicians jam in the pubs every evening. Be sure to check out the English Market, a typical wet-market with fish mongers, butchers and cheese shops.

We took an early morning walk along the banks of the River Lee out to the grounds of University College Cork, only a few minutes from downtown. Gorgeous.

Maynooth, County Kildare

Our time in County Kildare was limited mainly to the area around the town of Maynooth. For golfers the highlight has to be Carton House, two courses created from the grounds of an 1,100 acre estate originally belonging to the Earls of Kildare and the Dukes of Leinster. The original estate has been preserved and turned into a luxury hotel.

We wished we could have spent more time in Ireland, and given you more of a taste of what the country has to offer but that will have to wait for another time.

Next stop: Scotland

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