Koh Chang and Koh Mak

Sun, sand and sex. That’s what most people think about when they think of Thailand’s islands. We decided to find out for ourselves.

Foreigners are generally only familiar with the handful of Thai islands advertised by the airlines. However Thailand has over 1,400 islands. They vary in size from the large, such as well-known Phuket and Koh Samui, to the tiny, like Koh Yao Noi. (“Koh” is Thai for island.)

We chose to visit a couple of the lesser-known islands – Koh Chang and Koh Mak, plus the gateway city of Trat on the mainland. (There are two Koh Changs, one in the Gulf of Thailand, the other in the Andaman Sea to the west. We visited the one in the Gulf of Thailand.)

Trat

We started by taking a bus 300 km south from Bangkok to the city of Trat. It is a once-prosperous city now used mainly as an access point to Koh Chang. For a brief period this city was colonized by the French. A lot of its old buildings have a European influence. Sadly most are now very run down. Most tourists bypass it and head directly to the ferry. We’re glad we spent time visiting the city. Not only does Trat have a lot of character, it was a reality check for the unreal beach world of the islands.

Koh Chang

Koh Chang is one of Thailand’s larger and more touristic islands. The middle of the island is mostly mountainous jungle. The majority of the resorts hug the coastline on the western side of the island. The single road along the coast is lined with bars and restaurants. It was surreal to relax and chill beside the hotel’s pool and and watch the sunset from the beachfront, then wander a few steps the other direction onto the main road bustling with scooters, taxis and tourists looking for the happiest Happy Hour.

Koh Mak

After a few days on Koh Chang we took a speedboat to nearby Koh Mak. That trip alone was an adventure. Halfway across the strait the boat’s fuel line split open and we sputtered to a stop. The two-man crew had no tools to fix it so the the second half of the voyage was spent with one of them standing on the stern with his hand gripped around the fuel line to maintain the seal.

We survived to find Koh Mak a complete contrast to Koh Chang. If you crave peace and quiet, Koh Mak is for you. It is only 16 sq. km. There are no cars, just pick-up truck taxis, known as Songtaews (not the kind of transport your mother would approve of), and scooters for rent to tourists (also not the kind of transport your mother would approve of).

Luckily Koh Mak is very flat and almost deserted so it’s easy and safe (sort of) to get around on a scooter. There are a handful of beaches around the island, each with their own character. Our favourite was Laem Son, at the tip of the island. It was accessible only by boat or scooter. Its white beaches were practically deserted. The only food stall had great soup, cold beer and a cheerful owner.

Koh Mak had few tourists, great beaches and a very laid-back vibe to it. Highly recommended.

Next Stop: Myanmar

For more photos click on the Photo Albums menu and choose Koh Chang.