Laos

Laos is the world’s most-bombed country. Tens of millions of bombs remain undetonated today, and continue to kill. Not an obvious destination for Christmas.

Despite the grim history, and the relative poverty that most Lao people still suffer, they are delightful. They are quiet, gentle, and always smiling. They have a happy-go-lucky approach to life.

Laos is often overlooked by tourists. It lacks much of the tourist infrastructure that some of its neighbors have. It is a little gem that borders Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Myanmar and China.

Most days temperatures were in the high 20s C. Laos is predominantly Buddhist. Christmas Day was just another workday. Nonetheless, the larger towns were all decorated for Christmas. People happily wished us “Merry Christmas”. It made for a memorable Christmas.

Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang lies in a valley at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. It is the most popular location for tourists to visit in Laos. It is known for its many Buddhist Temples, of which there are over 75.

The sunrise alms-giving ceremony is an iconic sight favoured by tourists. It is surreal to see 100-plus monks serenely walking in procession as they receive alms – typically sticky rice or other simple foods – from devotees kneeling at the roadside.

We took a daytrip to Pak Ou Caves, Kuan Xi Waterfalls and the Whiskey Village (Moonshine Village more like it). They are nice but our favourite (especially Maria’s) was the water buffalo dairy farm. It is a working dairy farm promoting better use of water buffalo. Lao farmers only used buffalo for tilling fields. They did not realize you could milk them and make great cheese and ice cream from their milk. Visitors interact with the buffalo, including milking the cows and bottle-feeding the calves and feeding fresh grass to the big guy – 750 kg Ferdinand. They are surprisingly gentle for such big creatures.

To get away from the tourist trail we rented bicycles and took off for an adventure into the countryside. The roads (does something qualify as a “road” when it doesn’t show up on Google Maps?) were a tough slog due to the many hills, potholes and rough surfaces. It is always nice to get out and see little villages off the beaten track. We even happened across a wedding in a tiny Khmu ethnic group village. It was early in the day but Lao-Lao whiskey (even they joke it is so good they named it twice) was already pouring freely.

Vientiane

Vientiane is the capital of Laos. Having been burned to the ground in 1828 by Siamese troops, it lacks many of the historical sites seen in the rest of the region. One of its main attractions is the Patuxai Arch, similar to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. In what must be uniquely Laotian modesty, the tourism authority has posted a plaque playing down the Arch’s appeal, including the observation: “From a closer distance, it appears even less impressive, like a monster of concrete.” 

One of the more curious attractions is the privately-built Buddha Park, with over 200 Buddha statues. The park is about 24 kms from the city. Right-minded people hire taxis or take the bus. We hired a decrepit tuk-tuk for the one-hour ride. A fun and memorable ride.  

Next stop: Koh Chang, Thailand

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