Montenegro is small but a month wasn’t enough time

The train from Belgrade to Montenegro is reputedly one of the most scenic in Europe. The most dramatic part is through the soaring peaks of the Dinaric Alps. Unfortunately, about 90% of that stretch was spent in dark tunnels. There were glimpses of splendor – but only glimpses. After the mind-numbing 11-1/2 hour trip, we arrived in Podgorica, Montenegro’s administrative capital. Our visit to Montenegro had begun.

Podgorica

Our home was only a few minutes walk from the station along dark, cobblestone and dirt roads. We had dinner in a nearby bar surrounded by locals (all men) smoking and watching football. The next morning, we awoke to a beautiful hot sunny day, perfect for seeing the quiet city.

A decaying 5-meter stone wall with crumbling watch towers at each end loomed over our apartment. The walls surround about a 2-block area. Over coffee on the second morning, our host explained that the walls are the remnants of Jusovača Prison. It was built in the 19^th century by the Ottomans, then turned into a political prison by the Yugoslav regime. 

The host’s childhood home was beside our apartment. He grimly recalled that as a young boy he could hear the cries of prisoners as they were tortured. The prison finally closed in the 1980s. It is now abandoned and overgrown, except for a small makeshift, gritty bar built into a gap in the walls.

Kotor

Kotor is Montenegro’s most recognizable destination. We stayed for two weeks to enjoy it at a leisurely pace.

The Bay of Kotor is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The bay snakes around fjord-like for 28 kms in the shadows of steep mountains. It is particularly popular as a cruise ship destination. Kotor old town is a well-preserved, walled medieval stronghold at the end of the bay. It’s narrow, cobblestoned streets wind around maze-like.

When we were there, there were at least two or three cruise ships a day. In peak season, there are as many as five a day, disgorging upwards of 15,000 passengers. The old town is less than two square kilometres. When several thousand cruise ship passengers descend on the town, its narrow alleys quickly become congested with large walking tours. Our apartment was a short walk from the old town, beyond where most tourists venture. We avoided the old town except for our early-morning coffee, and early evening “happy hour”, when it was just us and some broke backpackers.

The walls of the ancient Fortress St Ivan wind up the hillside above the old town. The steep climb up the crumbling stone steps was challenging but the view of the bay from the top was like something from a postcard. The 4 km cable car ride to the summit of nearby Mt. Lovcen was an easier way to enjoy the view.

Exploring the Bay

We explored the whole bay, from Herceg Novi, near the Croatian border, to Tivat on the opposite side of the peninsula from Kotor. The bay is lined with beautiful little villages, mostly now catering to tourists. The narrow road is the main highway from Croatia. It is constantly grid-locked.

Tivat is home to Porto Montenegro, a deep-sea marina for super-yachts. The area around has been redeveloped with hotels, restaurants and luxury shops to accommodate the super-rich. There is very little security around the marina so it was easy to wander the jetties and admire the floating palaces.

Despite the crazy traffic and drivers, we rented a car for a few days to visit Lovcen National Park and Cetinj, Montenegro’s historic capital. Getting to Lovcen N.P. required driving the infamous Kotor Serpentine Road. The road climbs 450 m in 8 kms on a cliffside road barely wide enough for vehicles to pass. There are 16 hairpin bends. It took us 45 minutes to get to the top. We got stuck behind six full-size tour buses. Every time downhill cars met the buses, the cars had to back up the hill and around corners until they found a spot wide enough to pull off and let the buses pass.

Montenegro’s South Coast

We’re often asked how far in advance we plan our trips. Mostly we have a general idea before we leave home, but final details sometimes unfold on a whim. Our visit to the south coast of Montenegro was one such trip. A few days before leaving Kotor, we settled on Bar as our next stop. We booked four nights.

When we got to Bar, we discovered it was not the seaside resort we were expecting. It didn’t help that we were there in the off-season and the weather had turned. By day two we had seen enough. We sat on our balcony with glasses of wine and a map and looked at our options. The fortress town of Ulcinj was nearby.

George logged into Booking and found a terrific apartment on the walls of Ulcinj old town, with a large terrace overlooking the Adriatic for $45 CDN a night. By 9 p.m. we had our place booked and bags packed. The next morning we were on the bus to Ulcinj.

Montenegro took over Ulcinj from Albania in 1880. People have not forgotten. The town is a whole different vibe than the rest of Montengro. It is predominantly Muslim, many people speak Albanian, signs are in both languages. Ulcinj is known for Velika Plaža, the longest (13 kms) beach on the Adriatic. In the summer it is probably very nice. In October it was deserted. We did not swim.

The Famous Cats of Kotor

Kotor is famous for its cats. The town is full of them. They are even an unofficial symbol of the city. There is a Cat Museum. The cats are mostly strays, but all well fed and friendly. People treat them with affection. The town has a neutering program, but they can’t keep up. Maria spent a big chunk of our budget on deluxe food for the cat that haunted our front door.

39th Anniversary Dinner

Last but not least – We celebrated 39 wonderful years of marriage with a memorable dinner at Restaurant Galion overlooking the Bay of Kotor. We had the prime waterfront table with a twilight view of the Kotor marina and old town.