New Zealand Part II – the South Island – Te Waipounamu

If you’re following the blog you know we began our New Zealand adventure on the North Island. We followed up by driving south to north on the South Island.

Queenstown

The journey started in Queenstown. It is a resort town, known for its jet boats, white water rapids and as the birthplace of bungy-jumping. We didn’t do any of that. We did however take a relaxing cruise on Lake Wakatipu, enjoy a great dinner at Blu Kanu, and, the closest we got to daredevil thrills, rode the luge down Bob’s Peak, the mountain overlooking the town. It was actually a blast piloting the little luge car down the 1,600 metre track. Stunning views and lots of laughs.

Milford Sound

Arguably the most popular tourist attraction in New Zealand is Milford Sound in Fjordland National Park. There are only two ways to see the Sound – hike all or part of the four-day Milford Track, or pay through the nose for a day cruise. We paid for the cruise.

Like any mountainous coastal region it rains a lot. We lucked out and had a sunny day with brilliant blue skies for the cruise and our short hike along the shoreline. The views were stunning. According to the boat Captain we got the best day of the year.

We stayed in the nearby towns of Te Anau and Manapouri, both beautiful little towns. The two-hour drive from Te Anau to Milford Sound is nearly as spectacular as the Sound itself. Te Anau is also the terminus of the four-day Kepler Track so we hiked a portion (a short portion) of that.

The Oldest Goats Climbing Roy’s Peak

We worked our way north to Wanaka. We were looking forward to hiking Roy’s Peak, a 16 km hike with 1,300 m of vertical. The “in thing” is to start in the dark around 3 am to be at the top for sunrise. At 3 am we were still in deep sleep. Instead we started around sunrise to get the climb done before the day got too hot. Slogging our way up we met all the twenty-something Instagrammers on their way down. When we finally reached the top the crowds had already left so we had lots of space to sit and enjoy the views. The hike definitely challenged the legs and lungs but the panoramic views from the top were stunning.

Aoraki/Mt Cook

Next up was Aoraki/Mt Cook, the tallest peak in New Zealand. No, we didn’t hike up Mt Cook. We did however hike the Hooker Valley Trail, easily the most crowded hiking trail we’ve ever been on. Apparently lots of people think that when the Department of Conservation rates a 10 km trail “easy”, that means it’s a perfect trail to push your two-year in a stroller as grandma follows along in her sandals over the rocks and boulders.

The approach to Mt Cook is spectacular. It is alongside Lake Pukaki. The sight of the lake sparkling brilliant aquamarine with the snow-capped Mount Cook in the background was stunning.

The zone between Lake Tekapo and Christchurch is largely bypassed by international tourists. We ignored that reputation and stayed in the farming community of Fairlie. We checked into our 1960s-style roadside motel wondering what we’d done. Turned out the motel was a gem. The host shared the fruits off her trees and fresh tomatoes off her vines, let us use the barbecue to grill up dinner and play with her dog.

Christchurch – literally rising from the ashes

Being from Vancouver, where we sit atop a major earthquake faultline, visiting Christchurch was eye-opening and humbling. Christchurch suffered a 7.1-magnitude earthquake in September 2010, followed by a more devastating 6.3 magnitude quake in February 2011. 185 people died and 90% of the buildings in downtown Christchurch were destroyed or damaged.

Despite Herculean efforts, the city is still rebuilding more than a decade later. Empty lots and construction cranes abound. Many walls facing vacant lots where buildings once stood feature colourful murals. The murals were painted after the quakes in an effort to raise spirits and distract from the fallen buildings.

The city is slowly recovering. After extensive consultations, the city opted to rebuild with only lowrise buildings. The central business district has a few towers that survived the quake but new buildings are no more than four to eight stories. Downtown is pedestrian-friendly, with many streetside cafes and restaurants, especially around the Riverside Market. The Botanic Gardens are a lovely oasis to relax in nature and watch locals go about their daily lives.

An absolute must see is Quake City, the city’s museum to preserve stories of the quakes’ impact. We left reflecting on whether we would respond to a major earthquake with as much strength as the people of Christchurch have.

Flowers in Autumn – We were surprised by the abundance of colourful flowers still in full bloom as autumn approached in New Zealand. Instead of posting them here we created a special gallery for flower lovers. Click here to view the gallery.

Our Month in New Zealand

One month in New Zealand was not nearly enough. There is so much natural beauty and so many activities that we barely scratched the surface. Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit fans will be dismayed we didn’t even have time to visit any of the filming sites. Weather makes a big difference (and is increasingly unpredictable). Somehow we lucked out and only got two days of rain. Everything looks better in sunshine! 

New Zealand lives up to its reputation. It is a postcard perfect country with so much natural beauty. If you go:

• Take lots of money. NZ is expensive.
• Go in the shoulder seasons. NZ is a very popular tourist destination. Visit in the spring or autumn to avoid the crowds.
• Book ahead. Book early for hotels, rental cars and especially slots on any of New Zealand’s Great Walks. We typically plan and book only a week or two in advance. That was not a good strategy for New Zealand.
• Get off the beaten track. Some of the nicest places we visited were not on the usual “must see” lists.
• If you’re planning to hike or walk, which we highly recommend, check out the NZ Department of Conservation website. It is a fabulous resource – a model for countries everywhere to follow.