Zadar, Croatia

Zadar was our home base from mid-August to mid-September. It is a historic fortified port, now a popular vacation destination near the northern end of Croatia’s Adriatic Coast.

When we arrived the city was chock-a-block with vacationing families and in the midst of a record-breaking heatwave. Daytime highs were in the high 30s. Thankfully most of the holidayers went home when school started. By the time we left it was basically just us and the locals. Temperatures had moderated to the mid-20s. The city was much more pleasant!

Because of Zadar’s strategic importance it was besieged in 1991/92 (what Croats call the Homeland War). The city, including large parts of the historic walled city, was heavily damaged. The neighbourhood around our apartment still showed plenty of evidence of the ferocity of the battles. Only a block from our apartment stood the burned out remains of what had been a hotel, still abandoned after 28 years.

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Our apartment was on the 9th floor of a Communist-era building. The building had some quirks, to say the least. The apartment itself though was lovely, especially the view out over the Adriatic.

In addition to the longer trips away from Zadar we’ve recounted in previous posts, we also enjoyed some day trips around the area.

Ugljan Island is a 20 minute ferry ride from Zadar. It is a small island with some coastal villages and few residents. In the summer it fills with daytrippers heading to the beaches. We avoided the crowds and rented bikes, going off-road with bikes definitely not designed for it.

Pag Island is known for its lamb, lace, and cheese. It is memorable to us mostly for the bus ride from hell to get there, the moonscape terrain and the hordes of tourists laying on the beach like sea lions basking in the sun.

Plitvice Lakes National Park is one of Croatia’s most popular attractions. It is a large series of lakes connected by scenic waterfalls. It was not the relaxing day in the wilderness that we anticipated. The park is overwhelmed with visitors. You have to buy a ticket two days ahead that specifies the time you can enter. Once in the park you follow a marked series of trails and boardwalks, following behind a steady stream of visitors. If you step off the boardwalk Park Rangers issue a ticket. It was a very long 10 km hike/walk. For North Americans, a visit to a European park will make you appreciate the easy, and mostly free, access we have to nature.

Getting Around

We’ve recounted our experiences in the region, but have not dwelt on how we actually got around. A lot of our time was spent just getting from place to place. The train system is not as efficient as in other areas of Europe. Buses are the way to travel. We tallied over 2,500 kms on buses during our month in and around Croatia!

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There are lots more photos of Zadar. Just click on the Photo Albums menu at the top and select the Zadar gallery.

This ends our month based in Zadar. The weather is turning. Time to move on.

Next Stop: Corfu