After enduring the cold, wet rain in Europe we needed a break in the sun. We headed to the Middle East. Though we haven’t spent much time in the region, we’ve always received warm welcomes when we have. Time to explore two new countries – the United Arab Emirates and Oman.

Abu Dhabi

We landed in Abu Dhabi, the capital of the UAE, to blinding sunshine and 30C heat. It took a few days for our bodies to adjust. The first thing we noticed was that very few people walk anywhere. Gas is cheap, so with the heat and limited footpaths, the car is king. The roads are in pristine condition with numerous six lane highways crossing the city. The city itself is very spread out. As we found out, walking is not an option.

We started our first day in downtown. Between it being Friday and the general aversion to being out in the heat, we had the streets to ourselves. Finding pretty much everything closed, we made our way to the spectacular corniche stretching for 8km alongside the Persian Gulf. We love walking, so had fleeting thoughts of walking to the Presidential Palace. We made it around a kilometre in the deadly heat before giving up and calling an Uber.

Qasr Al Watan – Emirates Presidential Palace

The President doesn’t actually live in the Presidential Palace. It houses some offices, but is mainly used to host international Heads of State. When not being used to host VIPs, it is open to the public (for a fee of course). The Palace was built between 2010 and 2017. No cost was spared. It is over-the-top in grandeur and beauty. We were especially impressed with the 12-ton chandelier which has 350,000 crystals and a staircase inside to facilitate maintenance. The stone work and detail throughout the building rivals the Taj Mahal.

Emirates Presidential Palace – Slideshow →

After touring the Presidential Palace we needed to escape the heat and unwind. What better way than Afternoon Tea at the Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental Hotel. We spent three hours being pampered by our own personal waiter, sampling scores of exotic teas, and finishing with the restaurant’s signature gold-leaf cappuccino.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

Day two started at the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. It is the biggest mosque in the UAE and one of the few open to non-Muslims. We almost didn’t get in. The sleeves on Maria’s otherwise conservative, full-length dress were about three inches too short. With so much wrist showing, security turned her away. Pulling on George’s windbreaker solved the problem. (There will be no pictures of that fashion statement in the slide show.)

Built with white marble, the mosque is blinding in the desert sun and contrasts against the blue cloudless skies. Again it is over-the-top in richness. Exotic (and expensive) semi-precious stones, marble and wood were imported from all over the world. Stars of the show include the dazzling Swarovski crystal chandeliers decorated with 24 ct gold. The largest one weighs only 11-tons (a full ton short of the one at the Presidential Palace). The chandeliers resemble upturned palm trees, a sign of prosperity in the Middle East. The mosque can accommodate up to 40,000 worshippers. Worshippers in the main prayer hall kneel on the world’s largest hand-knotted carpet.

The Louvre

We closed out day two at the Louvre. Yes, the Louvre. They didn’t steal the name. They licensed it from that other Louvre. It is the first of many cultural facilities to be built on Saadiyat Island. The Louvre showcases world-class exhibits and art on loan from the Paris Louvre and the Musee d’Orsay, as well as highlighting Middle-Eastern art. The architecture is stunning. The museum is covered by a massive dome with a geometric design in eight different layers casting different shadows as the sun passes overhead. The shaded terrace restaurant was the perfect spot for a late lunch.

Dubai

Dubai is like the Las Vegas of the Middle East. Both rose out of barren desert, both are dominated by massive, overwrought buildings. Vegas has gambling; Dubai has shopping. Where better to start our visit than the Dubai Mall, one of the largest malls in the world. It has over 1,200 stores, an aquarium, underwater zoo and penguin colony. Every brand name imaginable is represented in the mall. At its busiest the mall gets 250,000 shoppers per day. We were there on a busy day. The crush to get outside to Burj Khalifa Lake for the light show overloaded the escalators and prompted security to restrict access. We squeezed our way out through a side door to join the throngs around the lake for the five minute light and water show at the base of the Burj al Khalifa, the world’s tallest building.

Old Dubai

Old Dubai is a complete contrast but has become more of a tourist hub with lots of souvenir stores.  A leisurely boat ride down the Dubai Creek was a relaxing way to see the old buildings with their wind towers and the working dhows maneuvering their large loads of merchandise in the busy waters.

The north bank of Dubai Creek is home to the Gold and Spice Souks. The Gold Souk is a magnet for tourists, but it is also a bustling market. Gold jewellery, regardless of the artistry required, is sold by weight. Pieces varied from small rings and bracelets to massive, gaudy chest plates and bodices. The gold is not just about adornment; it also gives women financial security. It can readily be converted to cash in time of need.

The nearby Spice Souk began in 1894. Not too much has changed over time. Stores are passed down through generations. The air wafts with the distinct aroma of frankincense, reminiscent of Catholic churches. The narrow, winding alleys are lined with colourful displays of spices, dried fruits, teas and incense.

In addition to its mall and the Burj al Khalifa, Dubai is famous for the Palm Jumeirah, an archipelago of artificial islands in the shape of a palm tree. We took a bus to its centrepiece, the Atlantis Hotel, naively thinking we could get inside for a peak. Security is tight; only guests are allowed to enter. We got the bum’s rush. They make an exception if you have reservations at one of their restaurants. We promptly made a reservation at its least expensive restaurant, the one without a Michelin star. Unfortunately, the restaurants are on a dedicated floor. Non-guests can still not access other areas. An expensive lunch for naught. After that we didn’t waste our time even trying to get close to the “7-star” Burj al Arab Hotel.

Oman

Muscat

We started our tour of Oman in its capital, Muscat. Flying into Muscat airport was surreal. The airport is ultra-modern and built to accommodate the masses. It is spotless, very well organized, no loud announcements, no crazy taxi drivers shouting for your attention. Everything was so calm and zen-like, mainly because few flights use the airport. It was empty.

The city is a complete contrast to Dubai and Abu Dhabi. The first thing you notice is there are no high rises. Buildings cannot exceed five stories and have to be traditional design. Exteriors must be painted white or an off-white, light brown shade.

We spent a day touring the old quarter. The Muttrah Souq took only a few minutes since we were not in the shopping mode. Unlike many markets, the merchants are not pushy. They’re obviously anxious to sell, but a polite “no” with a smile is all they need. Wandering along the Corniche from the local Fish Market towards the colourful Presidential Palace and the Mirani & Jalali fortresses took more time. The corniche also affords good views of the Sultan’s yachts (why would you have only one).

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is the highlight of the city. It is open to tourists, except Fridays. The Mosque, with its gleaming white marble and domes can hold up to 20,000 worshippers – 6,500 in the main prayer hall, 750 in the women’s prayer hall and the remainder in the courtyard and secondary prayer halls. The second architectural wonder of the city is the Royal Opera House. The former sultan was an opera aficionado so built himself, and all the other Omani opera-lovers, a world-class opera house.

Happy Hour

Our base was the Crowne Plaza Muscat. Evenings were spent relaxing on the hotel terrace enjoying glowing sunsets over the Gulf of Oman, happy-hour beer in hand (if $12 USD for a pint of beer can be called “happy”).

Going Back in Time

Heading off into the countryside gave us a taste of the country’s rugged scenery. Soon after leaving Muscat we headed into the Hajar Mountains. There is a modern highway that skirts the range, but what fun would that be? Instead we went up and over the mountains on an ancient donkey trail. Before we set off our driver let a lot of air out of the tires. That made the ride smoother, but it did not alleviate the blind hills, corners and massive drops off the side off the road. Guardrails do not exist. We just held our breath and prayed the driver knew what he was doing.

Nizwa Goat Market

Nizwa holds its Goat Market (a misnomer since all manner of livestock is auctioned) every Friday morning. The market has not changed much over the centuries. Goats and cows are paraded around in a circle lined by bidders. There is a frenzy of shouting, arm-waving and animals trying desperately to make an escape from the whole ordeal. All transactions are cash only, there is no paperwork to show any of the trades. Animals are carried, pulled or pushed into trucks to be transported to their new lives. The market finished around 9am and then the farmers retire to the adjoining market to buy dates and honey and cool down with some tea. Nizwa also has a beautiful Fort that has been renovated and open to tour. That was an aberration. Many of the other tourist attractions were closed for renovation, though there was little sign of work was in progress.

Hiking the Wadis

Weather was generally in the mid-30’s C. The barren grey and brown mountainsides kept the heat in. It was always a welcome sight when we came across Wadis (ravines) with their lush green vegetation and cool waters under the shade of palm trees. Wadi Bani Khalid has a refreshing pool at the entrance, but to get to the upper pools and cave requires a combination of hiking and swimming through narrow gorges.

Wadi Shab is reputed to be the most beautiful in Oman. As a result it attracts a lot of tourists, most of whom are unprepared for the 2 km hike through the rugged gorge to reach the upper pool. Between a combination of intense heat, slippery footing and our general disinterest in seeing more palm trees, we bailed after about a kilometre. If you go, wear sturdy shoes and take water.

A Night in the Desert

Wahiba Desert was home for the final night of our tour. We arrived in time to enjoy the sun setting behind the red dunes. The only sounds were of camels and the occasional planes overhead going to distant destinations. The main residents in the desert are small Bedouin communities herding goats and camels as they have done through centuries. Our hosts were disappointed that we turned down the offer to ride their camels through the desert. We’ve ridden camels. Some things you only need to do once.

Our return to Muscat was less exhilarating than the trip out. We took the smooth blacktop highway around the mountains and were back poolside at the Crowne Plaza for happy hour.

Medical Update – Those of you who read our last post know that Maria injured her ribs. Recovery has been slow but steady. She’s doing much better. Thanks to everyone for your concern and best wishes.