Hobnobbing with Drug Traffickers and Money Launderers

No, not really. Those are however the undeserved reputations of the two most recent cities we visited – Bogota, Colombia and Panama City. Bogota still carries the stigma of the drug cartels that terrorized the country. Panama’s banks are known for helping criminals and corrupt politicians conceal their money. In spite of their unsavoury reputations, both cities were terrific to visit. Two cities could probably not be any more different so it was an interesting contrast to visit them back-to-back.

Panama – City of Towers

A tiny country in Central America mainly known for its canal and secretive banks. One of the first things you notice is the diversity of Panamanians. This is due to the laborers from all over the world who were recruited to build the canal between 1904 and 1914. Over 40,000 laborers toiled on the canal. After the project was completed many stayed on in Panama.

Panama City is a vibrant melting pot of cultures with a wide selection of foods that we had been missing. Spectacular skyscrapers dominate the city skyline with soaring heights and dazzling architecture. The tallest is 284m (931 feet).

The historic old center is going through a period of rejuvenation. Derelict buildings are being slowly repaired to their previous glory, and small upscale boutique hotels are opening up. Panama City is limited on green space but from our hotel we were able to walk the Cinta Costera, a green area running 7km along Panama Bay. It is pedestrian only, with trails, bike paths and lots of food vendors to keep you well fed.

We spent one very hot, sunny afternoon walking the 6km Amador Causeway. The Causeway was built with the rocks and debris taken from the Panama Canal as it was being excavated. Public access was prohibited until 1979 when the USA ceded control of the Canal Zone. It now offers a pedestrian friendly walkway along the water. After a sweltering walk up the Causeway, we spent a few hours quaffing cold beers at TGI Fridays overlooking the canal, watching enormous container ships and one even bigger cruise ship exit the canal.

We queued for several hours at Miraflores Locks Visitor Center to see ships navigate the locks. It is a slow process but well worth it to see a massive cargo vessel make its way through the lock with only inches to spare on each side.

Bogota

One of our first impressions of Bogota is its color. Many buildings are brightly painted and they compete with a large selection of murals. Street art seems to be on every vacant wall. Many tourists to Colombia do not stop in Bogota because they believe it is dangerous and uninteresting.

We were happy to be off the beaten tourist path and enjoy the city with the locals. As with any big city you had to watch where you were after dark. We’re not usually drawn to museums (unless it’s raining). However, everyone said the Museo del Oro (“Gold Museum”) was a “must see”. They were right. It was mesmerizing to see the beautiful ancient art pieces used by indigenous peoples for their sacred rituals.

A day tour of the El Paraiso Favela high in the mountains above Bogota was an eye-opener on how gangs can rule neighbourhoods. We’d been told the tour would be joined by a local guide from the neighbourhood. He was not so much a guide as a “minder”. He didn’t say much, keeping a discrete distance behind us and constantly scanning. We’re not sure what he had in his backpack but we’re guessing it wasn’t his lunch. The largest gang we met though were the street dogs. They sure know how to protect their territory. They met us at the tram terminus and followed us every step of the way.

Street Art

Decriminalised in 2011, the murals tell of historical and political events in Bogota. Some murals address current issues facing the city. Artists are commissioned by businesses and individuals. The murals help to minimize graffiti tagging and brighten up derelict buildings and walls. They are also a tourist attraction, which help draw tourists into neighbourhoods that would normally not have tourists. We took a guided tour of some of the most vibrant neighbourhoods. We just expected to walk past nice art. Instead we got a fascinating introduction to the symbolism, history and political statements incorporated in the artwork.

To see lots more of Bogota’s street art click here.